Acknowledgments . . ix

PREFACE: From Communist Russia to Capitalist Russia: The Enormity of Privatization . . 1
INTRODUCTION: Russia is a Hard Country to Know: Do Not Trust First Impressions . . 9
CHAPTER ONE: Life at Moscow State University: Russia's Greatest University at Risk . . 19
CHAPTER TWO: Walking Around Moscow: What a Guide Book Won't Tell You . . 43
CHAPTER THREE: Life on Moscow's Streets: A World Capital Like No Other . . 57
CHAPTER FOUR: Scenes from Everyday Life: The Perils of Living without Language . . 73
CHAPTER FIVE: Russian Customs: Furs, Hats, Tipping, and Valentine's Day . . 105
CHAPTER SIX: A Quick Guide to Present Politics: Why Russians Feel Misunderstood . . 127
EPILOGUE: History is Heavy . . 149